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Puppy Care and Nutrition for Your New Puppy or Dog


We Always Recommend Diamond Naturals as the #1 Choice in Dry Kibble for Your New Dog or Puppy

Diamond Naturals

Chicken & Rice Adult Dog Formula

  • No Corn, No Wheat
  • Fresh Chicken is the #1 Ingredient
  • Antioxidant Formulation
  • Balanced Omega Fatty Acids for Skin and Coat
  • Crunchy Kibble Helps Clean Teeth and Reduce Plaque
  • Natural Formula with Vitamins and Minerals

DHA for Brain and Vision

All our puppy and kitten formulas are enhanced with DHA (Docosahexaenoic Acid) - a natural Omega-3 fatty acid critical for brain and vision development. A growing puppy or kitten first receives DHA from its mother’s milk. Yet studies show that puppies and kittens can greatly benefit from DHA long after weaning.

Our formulas supply natural DHA through easy-to-digest salmon oil, optimizing your pet’s potential for a healthy mind and body. It’s just another way we are committed to the total health and happiness of your pet.


The 26% protein and 16% fat formula will provide your dog with the nutrients necessary for optimal health and an active life. Guaranteed levels of vitamin E and selenium ensure that your dog is receiving optimum antioxidant nutrition, and crunchy kibble helps clean teeth and reduce plaque.

Protein: 26% Fat: 16%
Calories: 3,708 kcal/kg (368 kcal/cup) Calculated ME
Sizes Available: 40 lb. and 6 oz. sample

Ingredients

Chicken, chicken meal, whole grain brown rice, white rice, cracked pearled barley, chicken fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols), oatmeal, beet pulp, egg product, flaxseed, natural chicken flavor, fish meal, salt, potassium chloride, choline chloride, vitamin E supplement, iron proteinate, zinc proteinate, copper proteinate, ferrous sulfate, zinc sulfate, copper sulfate, potassium iodide, thiamine mononitrate, manganese proteinate, manganous oxide, ascorbic acid, vitamin A supplement, biotin, niacin, calcium pantothenate, manganese sulfate, sodium selenite, pyridoxine hydrochloride (vitamin B6), vitamin B12 supplement, riboflavin, vitamin D supplement, folic acid.


Guaranteed Analysis

Crude Protein 26.0% Minimum
Crude Fat 16.0% Minimum
Crude Fiber 3.0% Maximum
Moisture 10.0% Maximum
Zinc 150 mg/kg Minimum
Selenium 0.4 mg/kg Minimum
Vitamin E 150 IU/kg Minimum
Omega-6 Fatty Acids * 2.5% Minimum
Omega-3 Fatty Acids * 0.4% Minimum

Getting Started Feeding A Raw Diet

To get started on feeding raw it’s best if you slowly introduce raw meat as a treat for the first 3-4 days. Gradually increase the amount you give till they can actually eat a whole meal. If you give them a whole bowl of cut up meat or a raw meaty bone (RMB) they will either vomit or have the runs, or both.

I have found with RMB’s they can still get the runs the first time or so you feed them, it’s usually the extra fat on them that causes that. My pup had the runs with his first bone and his first chicken carcass. He’s solid as a rock now and doesn’t react to the introduction of new stuff anymore.

One of the benefits to feeding raw is their system is stronger because of it, they don’t have issues with “new” foods or treats.

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What meat sources you use is pretty much up to you. The only hard fast rules I follow are:


  • NO raw pork, trichinosis is still an issue unless you are POSITIVE the meat you get is clean. It’s a nasty little worm that does a lot of damage. I don’t feed pork product period, it’s hard for them to digest.
  • NO raw salmon. It can have a liver fluke that can potentially destroy your dogs liver. Cooked or canned is fine. One part of feeding raw that happens across the board, unless it’s a young pup, is detox. Their system has to get rid of all the garbage that has built up over years of feeding dry food, good or bad quality. It usually takes a month with the worst case scenarios.

They smell, their coat gets dull and brittle, their skin is oily, their breath and stool stinks, then one day, bingo. Beautiful dog. It’s happened to every one of my animals that I have given raw, to one degree or another.

Another concern that comes up frequently is bacteria and germs. A dogs system is designed to eat raw food. Their digestive juices are strong enough to break bones down, as a general rule they aren’t very susceptible to e-Coli, listeria or salmonella.

The dogs that are going to be susceptible are the very young, the very old and those that are ill. As far as germs go, if you use the same cleaning practices you do with your own food everything should be fine. The dog bowls are cleaned after each meal, the prep surfaces are scrubbed and the utensils are washed. Common sense and good kitchen practices will keep everything in hand.

What size portions should I feed?

How much you feed will depend entirely on your dog. How active they are, whether they need to lose weight or not, how big they are, and age to some degree. They also will eat like they are starving, which they are, for all intents and purposes. After the detox period they will settle into normal portions unless their activity level increases dramatically.

For my 70# pit mix she eats about a pound and a half of raw a day. My pup, who is 6 months and 60# eats about the same as she does. He will eventually get more since he will top out around 85 or so. She’s also 8 so she won’t need as much food as him.

I use fresh garlic for flea control, it’s also good for the blood. I crush about half a clove per dog 4 times a week.

For vegetable content, I go by color. Orange, green, white, yellow, and red, different colors cover different vitamins. I also don’t worry about balancing every day but rather over a weeks time. I use collard greens, spinach, kale, chard, broccoli, and brussel sprouts for the green.

Yams, sweet potato, and orange pepper, turnip, zucchini, yellow squash, radish, cauliflower for white, yellow pepper, the skin of the yellow squash helps with yellow, red is covered by the skins of the radish, a little beet and swiss chard has red in the stems and veins in the leaves.

Imagination and experimenting to see what your dog likes is key. I don’t use a lot of vegetable matter so my mixes use maybe one of each color, as an example:

  • 2 collard green leaves
  • 1 small to medium head of broccoli
  • 1/2 a small yam
  • 1 small turnip
  • 1 small yellow squash
  • Maybe 1/4 of a yellow pepper.
  • 1/4 of a beet.

    Puree it in a food processor and put into ice trays. Freeze for a couple of hours, separate into zip lock baggies. I will also add cranberries when they are in season. If I remember I will buy 4 or 5 bags when they are available. Apples are also a popular addition to the mix. I know folks that add apple cider vinegar to their mixes as well. It is a preservative, it also acidifies the dog and makes them less attractive for yeast infections.For a 60# dog you can give 4 cubes per meal. I actually feed less vegetable matter, the pug gets 4 cubes every other day. The two pits get them every 4th day, mostly because they eat dry. If they ate straight raw they would get 6 every other day. Most of the fruit they get in their diet comes from treats. When we eat it they get some. The only fruit they should not eat in any way, shape, or form are grapes. Absolutely NO raisins.Everything else is fair game. It’s fun to experiment and see what they will and won’t eat. Sasha doesn’t like Avocado’s, and goes insane for mango and banana’s.

    As far as meat and how much to feed. For ease of feeding I wouldn’t grind anything. It’s a pain, extremely time consuming and 99% of dogs don’t give a damn what form it is in.

    Veggies piled on top of hunks of meat goes over just fine. If they are a little reluctant to eat veggies, yogurt or cottage cheese mixed with them usually does the trick.

    In our house, regardless of which dog is getting the meat, it’s all cut up the same, about 2 inch square cubes. Makes pilling a breeze, they pick up the cube and swallow, never realizing there’s a pill in there.

    To get an idea of how much to feed per meal I would start by weighing portions till you get used to volume, here’s an example:

    A 3 pound roast with our animals will take care of 1 1/2 dinners. The 2 pits get about 3/4 of a pound each and the pug gets about 1/4 pound per meal. That doesn’t include veggies. Sorry it’s not more precise, I eyeball it most of the time. I judge what needs to change by how they look and act.

    I use organ meat regularly, they get liver, heart, pancreas, tongue, kidneys. Whatever I can get a hold of. I feed it twice a week as their evening meal, straight organ meat.

    I do feed dry to the pits so they get raw at night. I will give them veggies a couple of times a week. The pug eats straight raw, we feed a commercially prepared raw food for variety, it has veggies in it so we give him our mix twice a week.

    They all have bones available all the time. The two pits get half chickens twice a week, Sasha will get half a dry meal in the morning on those days, they tend to be VERY full after they are done. Not that they wouldn’t eat a whole one given the chance, as Garion grows I may end up doing that when he’s an adult. We’ll see how big he gets.

    For example, for a 60# dog:

    • 8oz cut up meat
    • 5 veggie cubes
    • 1 tablespoon yogurt or cottage cheese
    • 1/2 teaspoon flax or salmon oil
    • 1/2 clove crushed garlic
    • Or Chicken leg quarter , or wing sections and breast, or back and breast.
    • 5 veggie cubes
    • Oil supplement

    Or For a day and a half worth of food in one sitting you could throw the whole chicken carcass at them. It won’t take them any time at all to have that sucker eaten.

    For dogs with skin issues, the animal fat will help since it goes straight to the skin. Since it’s uncooked they will be able to use it to full benefit. The oil supplements will help as well.

    Most skin conditions will clear up with a raw diet because it’s fully usable by the animal and actually allows the conditions to heal. For dogs with severe food allergies you will have to watch for reactions to protein sources, it can be a bit difficult if you alternate protein with each meal or every other day. If there’s a reaction stick to one protein for a 10 day period and see what happens. It will be a process of elimination.

    In Conclusion

    Be careful when you first start out. Don’t just jump right into feeding raw. It’s always a good idea to get as much information on raw diets as possible.

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    Recommended Pitbull Nutrition Supplements

    Due to variation/quality of foods, and that there is not a vaccine available for EVERY canine illness, it is integral that you supplement your dog’s diet.  This supplement is also very important for bone and joint development in your pitbull. Many pitbull owners take great pride in rearing pups in a loving home environment. You should start by building the immune system of the pups which actually starts with a strict nutritional regimen that the mother pit is put on while in heat, and continued through breeding, whelping, and weaning.

    As the most progressive of physicians will tell you, it is impossible for us humans to possibly get all the nutrients from what we eat…and therefore we all need to supplement our diets to be sure we are getting our daily needs. We should do no less for our pitbull family members.

    In addition to this, Nu Vet Canine Plus has been shown to cure a variety of illness and canine disturbances such as:

    Skin and coat problems, fleas, yeast/ear infections, hotspots, stiffness in joints, premature aging, low energy levels, cataracts, digestive problems, heart disease, tumors and more.

    Made with all natural, human-grade vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, meeting the same strict guidelines as human pharmaceuticals. No artificial fillers or binders. Safe for pitbulls of all ages, including pregnant females.

    If you are looking to breed, this is a must have. It will give your pups the healthy start that they deserve, and also you will notice a huge difference in the weight, appearance, and overall health of the puppies. Use it through out the life of your pitbull.

    I truly recommend this to any pitbull owner that wants the best for their pitbulls.


    Helpful Information for You & Your New Puppy

    Adding a puppy to your household is an exciting endeavor. Puppies add a spark to a home, but they can also be difficult to manage. Be prepared for your puppy, and things will go a lot more smoothly.

    It is never a good idea to leave a puppy unattended in your home. This is simply asking for trouble. Buy a kennel box or crate that is of an appropriate size for your puppy (he should be able to stand up and turn around comfortably) and everyone’s lives will be much easier. Crate training a puppy is not cruel. It is the safest place for your puppy to be when everyone is out of the house. Puppies cannot chew on electrical cords, eat poisonous substances, eat the trash, tear up your shoes, or go to the bathroom on your rugs if they are confined to a crate or kennel box. Your puppy will grow to love the kennel box, and will choose to go there to sleep or rest. Putting the kennel in the room where you spend most of your time and leaving the door ajar, will help your puppy adjust to spending time there. Do not use the kennel as a punishment. If your puppy is not adjusting very quickly to the crate, try putting favorite toys or blankets in the crate, setting a ticking clock next to the kennel, or even playing a radio softly nearby. Allow your puppy to go in and out of the kennel, closing the door for increasingly longer periods of time until he is comfortable with the experience. Do not allow small children to shake the kennel box, tip it over, bang the door, or bang on the tops or sides. Your puppy will not feel safe, and will choose not to go there.

    Crate training can also help with house training. If your puppy will be living indoors, he needs to know to go to the bathroom outside. Most puppies, unless they are left alone too long, will not go to the bathroom in their crate. Very young puppies need to go out every 2-3 hours. After every meal or snack, you should take your puppy out immediately. Praise your puppy for every time he urinates or has a bowel movement outside. You can simply praise and pet him, give him a toy, or give him a piece of his puppy food. Many dogs are food motivated, so food rewards can speed along the training process. Most puppies have a small break in their training that lasts for a few days. This seems to happen at about 12-14 weeks of age. Your puppy may have an accident or two and then go back to normal. If your puppy is not getting housebroken, or was housebroken but no longer seems to be, see your veterinarian. Puppies are susceptible to bladder infections and if they develop one of these, housetraining can become nearly impossible. Your veterinarian can diagnose and treat the problem.

    As far as small children go, no child should be left unattended with a puppy. Puppies have sharp teeth that they use in play and children don’t know how to make appropriate corrections to this behavior. Also, small children don’t understand that puppies can’t be carried by the head or ridden like a horse. Serious injuries to young puppies can be the result of rough play by kids.

    When there are multiple members of the household, everyone should know the rules when it comes to training the puppy. Everyone should use the same training method, same rewards for good behavior, and the same command words. Puppies can only learn through consistent, positive training. Ask your veterinarian for a recommendation for a trainer. Puppies should go to socialization classes when they are very young and beginner obedience classes when they are a little older. It is best for one family member to attend the class with the puppy and to be responsible for teaching the rest of the family. If your puppy is having behavioral issues, private training sessions in your home may be the best option to stop a problem from getting out of hand. There are many resources available to help you teach your puppy proper behavior.

    Puppies need to chew things. They are born with a set of baby (or deciduous) teeth that fall out usually starting at 12 weeks of age. They gradually get all of their adult teeth in and usually have a full set at 7 months of age. Teething pain is the same for puppies as it is for human babies. Puppies need to have appropriate toys to chew on to relieve the discomfort. If you leave your shoes on the floor, your puppy will think it is ok to chew on them, especially if you have given your puppy old shoes or socks to play with. There are several companies that make hard rubber chew toys that have holes in them to fill with kibble or biscuits. These make great distraction agents and help keep a puppy (or adult) occupied if he is alone for part of the day. Sometimes your puppy’s baby teeth don’t fall out like they should. If this occurs, your veterinarian may need to remove them under sedation or general anesthesia. Retained deciduous teeth can cause dental problems later in life.

    It is important for your puppy to eat a specially formulated puppy diet. Puppies grow very rapidly and require more fat and calories than adult dogs. There are special formulas for large breed puppies. The reason behind this is that a link between rapid growth and developmental orthopedic disease has been discovered. Excess energy causes excess or rapid growth and fat is the part of the diet that supplies the energy. Large breed puppy formulas have less fat than regular puppy formulas. Also, large breed puppy diets have restricted calcium. This is because high calcium levels have also been linked to an increased incidence of developmental orthopedic disease. Ask your veterinarian for a recommendation about diet. Whatever you do, don’t change your puppy’s diet frequently. If your puppy is doing well on a particular formula, continue to buy and feed that formula. Puppies are susceptible to gastrointestinal problems after sudden diet change. This is also the case when they get table scraps.

    Puppies need regular veterinary care including check-ups and vaccinations. Vaccines are discussed in-depth in the vaccine article. Starting at 6-9 weeks of age, your puppy needs to start visiting a veterinarian. Most veterinarians vaccinate and deworm puppies starting at this age, and continuing every 2-4 weeks until they reach 16 weeks of age. Your veterinarian can help you solve behavioral issues and address any health concerns. This regular veterinary care can be costly, and this doesn’t even include care for illness or injury. Make sure you figure this cost into your plans so that you are not caught unaware.

    All in all, puppies can make a great addition to most families. They do, however, require a lot of care and attention. Preparing for the addition makes the transition much better for everyone involved.
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    Puppy Health: The Diet Connection

    Puppies and kittens are just like babies in many ways. They can get cold very easily, they can get sick easily, and they require frequent meals. They rely on their parents (or at least their mom) for care and food in the initial weeks after they are born. In most cases, puppies or kittens go home with someone new between 6 and 8 weeks of age. This is where you come in, the new puppy or kitten owner. It can be very difficult to choose the right puppy food or kitten food, but with some knowledge of the importance of diet to your new puppy or kitten’s health, you can easily make the right decision.

    A good quality growth formula (puppy or all life stages food) is very important for your rapidly growing puppy. New advances in pet nutrition allow you to provide your puppy with optimal nutrition for optimal health. Small and medium breed puppies are often fed differently than large or giant breed puppies. The primary difference is the fat and calorie content of the foods that are labeled for the different sized breeds. Small and medium breed puppies benefit from higher fat levels, what would be considered formulas with greater energy density. Because these tiny puppies do not eat a large volume of food, it is best to feed a diet that contains at least 15% fat to achieve optimal growth and development. Large and giant breed puppies may benefit from diets that are lower in fat and calories to help them grow more slowly so that they are less likely to develop bone and joint abnormalities. While genetics is the most important factor affecting the health of the bones and joints of these puppies, diet can play a role by promoting too rapid of a growth rate. Keeping puppies in lean body condition is something that will help keep them healthier throughout their lives. For more information regarding developmental abnormalities of the skeletal system, please read our companion articles: Developmental Orthopedic Disease or Hypertrophic Osteodystrophy and Panosteitis.

    Kittens benefit from kitten foods that are high in protein and high in fat. This type of formula is lower in carbohydrates than diets that are lower in protein or fat. Cats are carnivores, designed to consume high protein diets with very little, if any, carbohydrate content. Dry pet foods must contain carbohydrates, this is just a fact of the manufacturing process. However, feeding your kitten a kitten food that is greater than 30% protein and greater than 18% fat, will help provide your kitten with optimal nutrition for growth, development, and health.

    Antioxidants are important additions to any puppy food or kitten food. Vitamin E and selenium are recognized as two of the most critically important antioxidants for the health of your pet. Look on the Guaranteed Analysis for nutrient guarantees of these two important antioxidants. As food is digested and metabolized, one of the by-products of this process is a particle called a free radical. The formation of free radicals is just part of everyday living. Because young animals take in such a large number of calories, their bodies produce free radicals at a higher rate. Young animals have more natural mechanisms to rid themselves of these pesky particles, but benefit from a diet that includes some additional help in neutralizing these charged oxygen molecules. Free radicals damage healthy cells by injuring the membrane, or covering, around the cell. Neutralizing the free radicals with antioxidants will help minimize this effect.

    Your puppy’s health and your kitten’s health can be positively impacted with fatty acids. Fatty acids are components of fat sources within the puppy food or kitten food that you select for you new pet. There are two primary groups of fatty acids that we are interested in: omega-6 fatty acids and omega-3 fatty acids. Omega-6 fatty acids are required nutrients and are present in all puppy foods and kitten foods. Omega-6 fatty acids keep the skin hydrated so that it does not become dry and flaky. However, if omega-6 fatty acids are not balanced with omega-3 fatty acids, they may promote inflammation within the body. There are cells that respond to different insults or attacks within the body. These cells are inflammatory cells. Sometimes though, these cells respond to a non-existent threat and cause irritation or damage in otherwise healthy parts of the body. Omega-3 fatty acids help prevent this indiscriminate inflammation. Omega-3 fatty acids are not always added to puppy foods or kitten foods. Ingredients such as flaxseed, fish meal, and fish oil include omega-3 fatty acids. Look on the guaranteed analysis for omega-3 fatty acids. They should be present in a 5:1 to 10:1 ratio of omega-6:omega-3 fatty acids for optimal health effects.

    Let’s talk just briefly about ingredients. Ingredients are only as important as the nutrients that they provide to the formula. Fresh meats are appealing to your puppy or kitten because they improve the flavor of the food. However, these fresh meats should be followed with a protein meal that is animal sourced, such as chicken meal, chicken by-product meal, or lamb meal, to name a few. Fresh meats are great, but they are very high in water. So, when the food is cooked, the water is removed and much less of the fresh meat is left behind. This is why dry protein meals are critical to providing adequate protein levels for your rapidly growing puppy or your carnivorous kitten.

    Natural preservatives include mixed tocopherols (vitamin E), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), and rosemary extract. The technology behind natural preservation has come a long way. We can now safely and effectively preserve pet foods for many months using only natural ingredients.

    Many puppy foods and kitten foods now include whole grains, fruits, and vegetables. These ingredients may help promote a healthier metabolism and also provide natural sources of vitamins and minerals. Your puppy’s health or your kitten’s health does not rely solely on ingredients such as these and some pets do better on diets that are simpler, more basic and do not contain so many varied ingredients, especially when these foods contain the nutrients that were mentioned above.

    Feeding your puppy or kitten for his optimal health is not difficult with some many choices of quality puppy foods and kitten foods. All puppies and all kittens cannot eat the same food with the same results and some trial and error may be necessary to find just the right food, but with the right choice, your puppy or kitten will grow and thrive and become a happy and healthy adult.


    Vaccinating Your Dog

    Vaccinating your dog is a more controversial topic than ever before. If you ask five different veterinarians what vaccinations your dogs need, you will probably get five different answers! This article is based on my veterinary opinion, with information from research articles added for support. Your veterinarian may do things differently from this, which does not mean it is wrong, just different.

    Let’s start with a puppy. Most veterinarians recommend starting puppy vaccinations between 6 and 9 weeks of age. Core vaccines include some type of distemper and parvovirus combination vaccine and rabies. Vaccines are boostered every 3-4 weeks until usually 16 weeks of age. State law dictates when the rabies vaccination is administered. Individual veterinarians may also offer a kennel cough vaccination, a Giardia vaccine, a Lyme disease vaccine, coronavirus vaccine, and canine hepatitis vaccine. All of these are controversial and vary by veterinary preference and geographic location.

    Puppies need vaccinations because their immune systems do not recognize these viruses or bacteria and they can become ill. When we really start getting into the controversy is when we talk about revaccination. Many veterinarians believe that boosters must be given one year after the puppy series is complete. After this, anything goes. Some practices booster the vaccines every year, some every two years, some every three, some every five. It is important for you to talk with your veterinarian and find out what the vaccination policy is. Ask questions about why it is done a certain way. If you are not comfortable with your veterinarian’s policy, ask if you can make an individual plan for your dog. Most veterinarians will be more than happy to work with you, especially if you are committed to bringing your dog in for annual check-ups (even if no vaccines are due).

    Vaccine titers can be run in place of vaccinations at annual check-ups. Blood is drawn and the serum (liquid part of the blood) is submitted to a laboratory that can run the test. A number result is obtained from the test that helps your veterinarian tell if your pet has protection from the viruses that we vaccinate against. Titers are another controversial topic, with some veterinarians believing that they do not offer any valuable information.

    There is some information available that blames vaccines for many health problems. Scientific proof of this is not available, but many veterinarians are researching this topic so that we can do the best thing for all pets. In the United States, we have a relatively low prevalence of some serious viral diseases that are contagious between dogs. Rabies is a disease that is contagious not only between different species of animals, but also contagious to people through the bite of an infected animal. Vaccinations have prevented rabies from becoming a health hazard to the same degree that it is in some other countries where vaccination is not as common, or greater populations of animals live in close contact with humans. Do your research and talk it over with your veterinarian. Above all, act responsibly to protect the health of your pet and your family.

    House Training Your Puppy

    Training your puppy to go to the bathroom outdoors may seem like a daunting task, but with some time and patience, you shouldn’t have any trouble. The most important aspect of training is consistency.

    Crate training makes the house training job much easier. Confining your puppy to a crate while you are not around will not only protect him from hazards in the house, but will also help him learn to hold his urine and bowel movements. You must be reasonable about your expectations for your puppy, however. A young puppy can’t stay in a crate for 10 hours a day while everyone is away at work. Very young puppies need to go outside every 2 to 3 hours. Plan accordingly.

    You can start training your puppy from day one. Positive reinforcement is the key to the training process. Most puppies are motivated by food, so using some small treats or even some pieces of puppy food works really well. Take your puppy outside, set him where you would like him to go to the bathroom, and when he goes, act like it is the greatest thing you have ever seen. Praise him and give him a treat. Every time he goes to the bathroom outside, do this.
    Anytime a puppy eats something, he will need to go outside. Don’t let your puppy nibble on a bowl of food all day long, you will find the housetraining process extremely discouraging. Feed meals (2-4 per day) so that you can take your puppy out after every meal.

    Most puppies are easy to housetrain, but have a small lapse in training around 12-14 weeks. If your puppy is doing really well and suddenly has a few accidents for a day or two, don’t worry. Things should get back to normal right away. If the problem persists, there could be a medical problem. Puppies can develop bladder infections. If your puppy is extremely difficult to train or was trained previously and is now having accidents, talk with your veterinarian.
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